CELEBRATING MEXICAN CUISINE IN SEPTEMBER: Chiles en Nogada and the Essence of Seasonal Ingredients
september, 2024By Chef Fernando Stovell
SEPTEMBER IS A MONTH OF VIBRANT CELEBRATIONS IN MEXICO, MARKED BY THE COUNTRY’S INDEPENDENCE DAY ON THE 16TH.
This festive period brings a rich array of traditional dishes to the table, showcasing the diverse and bountiful ingredients that the Mexican land offers.
Among these culinary delights, Chiles en Nogada stands out as a symbol of Mexican heritage and gastronomic artistry. Let’s explore the seasonal ingredients that define this month and explore into the fascinating history of Chiles en Nogada and the elusive ingredient, La Visnaga.
SEASONAL INGREDIENTS:
In September
September in Mexico is a time when the summer harvest melds with the early autumn produce, creating an abundance of fresh ingredients.
Key among these are:
- POMEGRANATES: These jewel-like seeds not only add a burst of colour to dishes but also provide a refreshing tartness. They are essential in the preparation of Chiles en Nogada, symbolising the ruby red of the Mexican flag.
- WALNUTS: Freshly harvested walnuts are pivotal for the creamy walnut sauce (nogada) that blankets the stuffed chiles. Their rich, buttery flavour is crucial for achieving the dish’s signature taste.
- CHILES POBLANOS: These mild green chiles are in their prime during September. They are roasted and peeled, providing a subtle heat and a smoky depth to dishes.
- APPLES, PEARS, AND PEACHES: These fruits are used in the picadillo stuffing of Chiles en Nogada, offering a sweet and slightly tangy contrast to the savoury meat filling.
- MEXICAN HERBS: Fresh herbs like cilantro, parsley, and epazote are abundant, adding aromatic notes to a variety of dishes.
THE HISTORY OF:
Chiles en Nogada
Chiles en Nogada is a dish steeped in history and patriotism. Its origins date back to 1821, coinciding with Mexico’s independence from Spain.
According to legend, the dish was created by nuns from the Santa Monica convent in Puebla to honour Agustín de Iturbide, one of the leaders of the independence movement, on his visit to the city.
The dish was designed to represent the colours of the newly established Mexican flag: green from the chiles, white from the walnut sauce, and red from the pomegranate seeds. This meticulous presentation not only celebrates the nation’s heritage but also showcases the culinary sophistication of Mexican cuisine.
Chiles en Nogada consists of roasted Poblano chiles filled with a picadillo mixture of meat, fruits, and spices. This is then topped with a silky walnut sauce and adorned with pomegranate seeds and parsley.
The combination of flavours and textures in this dish is a testament to the creativity and skill of Mexican cooks.
EL ACITRÓN:
The Prohibited Ingredient
El acitrón: also known as the “giant Mexican cactus,” is an ingredient shrouded in both culinary tradition and controversy.
Historically, its fibrous core was used in Mexican cooking for its distinctive flavour and medicinal properties. However, due to overharvesting and its status as an endangered species, the use of La Visnaga has been heavily regulated and, in many cases, prohibited.
Despite its rarity, the legacy of El acitrón: lives on in the memories of traditional Mexican cooks. It serves as a reminder of the delicate balance between culinary heritage and environmental conservation. As we celebrate the rich tapestry of Mexican cuisine, it is crucial to honour and preserve these precious natural resources for future generations.
Visnaga and acitrón are terms often confused, but they refer to different things within Mexican cuisine.
Visnaga
- ORIGIN: Visnaga is a plant from the cactus family specifically of the genus Echinocactus.
- USE: It is generally used in traditional medicine and as food in some regions. The plant itself is not commonly consumed directly in everyday cuisine.
Acitrón
- ORIGIN: Acitrón is a product made from the stem of the Echinocactus platyacanthus or biznaga cactus. It is an endangered species, so its use is increasingly regulated and discouraged.
- USE: The cactus stem is cut into pieces and cooked in syrup until it acquires a crystallized texture. Use: It is used as an ingredient in various traditional Mexican dishes, such as chiles en nogada, tamales, and some roscas de reyes.
Key Differences
- RAW MATERIAL: Visnaga refers to the plant itself, while acitrón is a processed product derived from the biznaga stem.
- CULINARY USE: Visnaga is not directly used in cooking, whereas acitrón is a common ingredient in various traditional Mexican recipes.
- AVAILABILITY: Visnaga is a plant found in the Mexican desert, whereas acitrón, due to the overexploitation of the viznaga, is increasingly difficult to find and its use is being restricted to protect the species.
DUE TO THE SITUATION OF THE VIZNAGA, MANY CHEFS AND COOKS ARE SEEKING SUSTAINABLE ALTERNATIVES TO ACITRÓN TO PRESERVE BIODIVERSITY AND COMPLY WITH ENVIRONMENTAL LAWS.
September in Mexico is a time to revel in the nation’s history, culture, and culinary splendour. The seasonal ingredients that grace our tables this month are a testament to the land’s generosity and the skill of its people. Chiles en Nogada, with its historical significance and intricate preparation, embodies the spirit of Mexican independence and the artistry of its cuisine. As we savour these flavours, let us also remember the importance of sustainable practices, ensuring that the ingredients we cherish today will be available for future celebrations.
Enjoy this month of festivities and the exquisite tastes of Mexico!
CHILES EN NOGADA:
Recipe by Fernando Stovell
Ingredients:
FOR THE FILLING:
- Butter
- Olive oil
- Garlic
- Onions
- Cooked and shredded meat (pork, chicken, or veal)
- Raisins
- Dried plums
- Crystalized pears, orange, and pineapple
- Fresh fruit (apples, peaches, plantains)
- Tomatoes
- Walnuts and pine nuts
- Spices: cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, bay leaves,thyme, marjoram, star anise
- Dry sherry or white wine
- Salt and pepper
FOR THE CHILES:
- Poblano chiles
FOR THE NOGADA SAUCE:
- Walnuts
- Almonds
- Goat cheese
- Milk
- Cream
- Sugar
- Cinnamon
- Dry sherry
- Salt
FOR GARNISH:
- Pomegranate seeds
- Parsley
Instructions:
PREPARE THE CHILES:
Roast the poblano chiles until their skin is charred. Place them in a plastic bag to sweat, then peel, slit, and deseed them.
PREPARE THE FILLING:
Sauté garlic and onions in butter and olive oil until translucent. Add the cooked meat and sauté. Mix in raisins, dried plums, crystalized fruits, and fresh fruits. Add tomatoes, nuts, and spices. Pour in the sherry or wine and cook until the mixture thickens. Let it cool.
STUFF THE CHILES:
Fill each chile with the prepared filling.
PREPARE THE NOGADA SAUCE:
Blend walnuts, almonds, goat cheese, milk, cream, sugar, cinnamon, and sherry until smooth. Adjust consistency as needed.
SERVE:
Pour the nogada sauce over the stuffed chiles.
Decorate with the pomegranate seeds and parsley