A CULINARY JOURNEY THROUGH YUCATÁN:From Progreso to Izamal,Chichén Itzá, and Beyond
march, 2025By Chef Fernando Stovell
THERE ARE PLACES THAT STAY WITH YOU FOREVER—PLACES THAT IMPRINT THEMSELVES ONTO YOUR MEMORY NOT JUST FOR THEIR BEAUTY, BUT FOR THEIR PEOPLE, THEIR TRADITIONS, AND THE WAY THEY MAKE YOU FEEL. YUCATÁN IS ONE OF THOSE PLACES.
It is a land where history breathes in every stone, where food is an ancestral language spoken fluently by those who respect the fire, and where the warmth of its people is as comforting as the dishes they serve. This journey, gifted to me by my wife Maricarmen and children for my birthday, was not just about travel; it was about discovery, connection, and inspiration.
PROGRESO:
Where the Sea and Heritage Collide
Our journey began in Progreso, a coastal gem where my father-in-law and my wife’s grandmother were born.
Walking through its streets, I felt a deep sense of belonging—not just as a visitor, but as someone tracing the roots of my family’s story.
Lunch was at Crabster, where Head Chef Edgar Luciano presented a meal that will forever be etched in my memory. The cangrejo de moro, with its tender, sweet flesh, was an absolute revelation, a reminder that the sea has its own poetry, and we chefs are merely its interpreters.
The aguachile de caracol was nothing short of a revelation—easily among the ten most unforgettable dishes I have ever experienced. The harmony of cucumber, citrus, and the delicate texture of the sea snail was pure artistry, a testament to the kind of mastery that comes from an innate understanding of balance and flavour.
Yet, the journey did not end there. The addition of recado negro to the caracol—more than just a technique or ingredient, but an entire culinary philosophy—sparked reflections on future creations, new ways to honour its smoky, intricate depth.
“This meal was a tribute to Yucatán’s culinary brilliance, a seamless fusion of tradition and innovation.”
As the sun began to set, we strolled along El Muelle (the pier), where the famous Marquesitas de Don Carlos awaited us. This is Yucatán in a bite—a crispy crepe-like shell filled with a contrasting mix of sweet and savoury ingredients, it was a classic Marquestita with queso de bola “Edam cheese”. Standing there, enjoying every crunchy bite, I realised that food in Yucatán isn’t just about taste—it’s about experience, nostalgia, and the joy of the present moment.
IZAMAL:
The Yellow Jewel of Yucatán
The following day, we drove to Izamal, a city bathed in golden hues and steeped in history.
Known as Pueblo Mágico, Izamal is said to be a city of three cultures: Maya, Colonial, and modern-day Mexico. It is a place where past and present coalesce in a breathtaking display of architecture, tradition, and spirit.
Our first stop was the Convento de San Antonio de Padua, an enormous, striking monastery that dominates the centre of town. You can’t miss it, nor should you. There is something humbling about standing in a place so deeply connected to time—a structure that has witnessed centuries unfold.
We were fortunate meet with an incredibly knowledgeable guy, Julio Cesar Imish Kuj, whose passion for his heritage was contagious. He led us to Kinich, a restaurant where he works, the energy, the pride, and the devotion to Yucatán’s culinary traditions are second to none. Cooking on fire, as they do here, feels like home to me—primitive yet sophisticated, raw yet refined. Unfortunately, due to our tight schedule, we couldn’t stay for the opening, but even in the preparation, the air was thick with excitement, the promise of something extraordinary.
It was in this place that I encountered an ingredient that will forever hold a place in my kitchen: Chaya.
A leaf with a meaty texture, almond notes, and an unmatched ability to transform a dish, Chaya is more than an ingredient—it is a symbol of the land. Julio César also introduced me to the woods and leaves used in traditional Mayan cooking, one of which, yaxché, captivated me—a wood once used by the Maya for protection, its natural spikes carrying history in their very fibres. I was shown how they prepare their venison, slow-cooked for eight hours with hoja de roble or jabin, the aroma alone an experience in itself. Every tortilla here is handmade and cooked directly over fire, and the way the women sit to prepare this humble yet extraordinary staple is as poetic as it is deeply rooted in tradition.
From there, we drove to Chichén Itzá, one of the greatest wonders of the world.
No matter how many times you see it in photographs, nothing prepares you for the moment you stand before it. It is a reminder of the ingenuity and brilliance of the Maya, a civilisation that understood architecture, astronomy, and the soul of the universe long before the rest of the world caught on.
MÉRIDA:
A Celebration of Flavour
That evening, back in Mérida, I had another revelation — the sopa de lima.
This dish, simple in appearance yet rich in depth, was an awakening of the senses. The bright acidity, the floral notes, the comforting warmth, the subtle smokiness—it was perfection. Alongside it, vegetarian panuchos and tacos de cochinita reaffirmed my belief that Yucatán’s food is a masterclass in balance—earthy, acidic, smoky, and fresh all at once.
HACIENDA MUCUYCHÉ:
A Cenote and a Chef’s Epiphany
The next morning, we visited Hacienda Mucuyché and its cenote. There, submerged in the still, crystalline waters, I had an encounter with myself.
Floating in silence, surrounded by the natural beauty of this sacred space, I felt at peace, reenergised, and connected to something greater than myself. It was a moment of clarity, a deep inhale in the midst of a world that often moves too fast.
Afterwards, I met Chef Weymar and his team—an encounter I will never forget. With immense pride, they shared a tasting menu that celebrated Yucatán’s history and identity.
THE HIGHLIGHT?
Everything related to Chaya—from papadzules and quesadillas de chaya con queso de bola to recado negro and a single, perfectly executed taco de cochinita. Each dish was an homage, each bite a lesson in respect for tradition.
A Final Taste of Yucatán
On our last day in Mérida, we indulged in one final taste of the region.
Torta de lechón at Nuevo San Fernando. Tender, flavourful, and unapologetically rich, it was the perfect farewell, a last embrace before leaving this extraordinary land.
More Than a Trip, a Love Affair
Yucatán is not just a destination—it is a feeling, a way of life, a place where history, food, and people intertwine to create something truly magical. This journey, shared with my wife, was one of the most exciting and fulfilling travels I have experienced in Mexico. The people—their warmth, their smiles, their unwavering pride in their culture—make this state what it is: a place worth celebrating, returning to, and learning from.
For its culinary genius, its history, and, most of all, its people, I cannot recommend Yucatán enough.
- If you seek inspiration, go to Yucatán.
- If you seek connection, go to Yucatán.
- If you seek food that speaks to your soul, go to Yucatán.
Because in every dish, every conversation, and every golden-hued street, Yucatán is telling a story. And it is one worth listening to.